The Ultimate Zipper Guide for Clothing Tech Packs (2026)
Zipper sizes, materials, functions and parts explained, the main zipper brands from YKK to Riri and Lampo, and exactly how to write a zipper into your tech pack so the factory gets it right.
A zipper can make or break your garment. A zipper that's too heavy for a lightweight jacket makes the fabric sag. A cheap zipper on heavy denim breaks after a few washes.
When you brief a clothing manufacturer, you can't just write "add zipper" in your tech pack. If you don't specify the size, material, function and brand, the factory will use whatever it has in stock, and that's rarely what you had in mind.
The short answer
To specify a zipper for clothing, you need six things: the size (gauge), the material (metal, coil or moulded), the function (closed-end, open-end or two-way), the slider type, the length, and the tape colour, plus the brand if it matters to you. A #5 is the standard size for most jackets and hoodies, and YKK is the default brand for reliable, widely available hardware.
The parts of a zipper
Knowing the names makes your specs and factory conversations much clearer:
- Tape: the fabric strips the teeth are attached to, which are sewn into the garment.
- Teeth (elements) and chain: the interlocking teeth; the two rows together are called the chain.
- Slider: the part that opens and closes the chain.
- Puller (pull tab): the tab you hold, attached to the slider. It can be branded or custom.
- Top stops: small stops that keep the slider from running off the top.
- Bottom stop, or box and pin: a bottom stop closes a closed-end zipper; on a separating zipper, the pin slides into the box to join the two sides.
1. Zipper sizes (the gauge)
Zipper size is a number that describes roughly how wide the chain is, in millimetres, when it's closed. Real chains usually run a little wider than the number, so treat the size as a name rather than an exact measurement, and spec the size plus the zipper type.
| Size | Weight | Common uses |
|---|---|---|
| #2 – #3 | Fine | Lingerie, linings, dresses, skirts, small internal pockets |
| #4 – #4.5 | Light | Lightweight jackets, trouser flies, mid-layers |
| #5 | Standard | Hoodies, most jackets, jeans flies, bags |
| #7 – #8 | Heavy | Parkas, puffers, workwear, leather jackets |
| #10 | Extra heavy | Heavy outerwear, bags, statement streetwear pieces |
Not every size exists in every material. For the exact range by type, see the size chart in our YKK zipper guide.
2. Zipper materials
| Material | What it is | Strengths | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metal | Individual metal teeth (brass, aluminium or nickel alloys) clamped onto the tape | Durable, heavy, premium look; many plating finishes | Denim, leather, workwear, premium hoodies |
| Coil (nylon) | A continuous spiral of synthetic monofilament sewn or woven onto the tape | Light, flexible, smooth; can curve; used for invisible zippers | Activewear, dresses, linings, lightweight jackets |
| Moulded plastic | Individual plastic teeth injection-moulded onto the tape (YKK calls this Vislon) | Light, rustproof, chunky and weather-resistant | Outerwear, puffers, technical and streetwear pieces |
If your garments go through industrial washes, such as stone or enzyme washes on denim, ask for metal finishes rated for washing so the zipper doesn't discolour or stain the fabric.
3. Zipper functions
- Closed-end: joined at the bottom, so the two sides never fully separate. Used for jeans and trouser flies, pockets and quarter-zips.
- Open-end (separating): the two sides come fully apart via the box and pin. Used for full-zip hoodies and jackets.
- Two-way separating: two sliders on one chain, so the garment opens from the top or the bottom. Useful on long coats, parkas and oversized jackets so they don't bunch when you sit.
- Invisible (concealed): a coil zipper sewn into a seam so the teeth don't show from the outside. Used on dresses, skirts and tailored pieces.
4. Slider and lock types
- Automatic lock: the slider locks in place as soon as you let go of the pull. The usual choice for jackets and flies.
- Non-lock: the slider moves freely. Common on pockets and bags.
- Semi-automatic lock: the slider locks when the pull is pressed flat. Common on jeans.
- Reversible: the pull rotates so the zipper works from either side, for reversible garments.
5. Zipper brands: standard to luxury
Naming a brand in your tech pack gives you consistent quality and stops the factory substituting a cheaper zipper.
| Brand | Based in | Tier | Known for |
|---|---|---|---|
| YKK | Japan | Standard | The global benchmark, with an estimated 40% or more of the world zipper market; the widest range of sizes and types |
| SBS | China | Standard | One of the largest zipper makers; a common lower-cost alternative for volume production |
| Talon | USA | Heritage | Descended from the company behind the first commercial zip fasteners; popular with heritage denim and vintage-style brands |
| Riri | Switzerland | Luxury | Polished brass metal zippers and a wide range of platings |
| Lampo | Italy | Luxury | Italian hardware since 1887, with Super Lampo as its top line and a wide range of finishes and pullers |
| Raccagni | Italy | Luxury | Premium Italian zippers with distinctive platings, used in high-end fashion and streetwear |
Talon's story is a good reminder that the zipper took decades to get right: Whitcomb Judson patented a "clasp locker" in 1893, Gideon Sundback developed the hookless fastener that modern zippers are based on in the 1910s, and the company took the Talon name in 1937.
For deeper brand guides, see YKK, Riri and Lampo.
6. How to specify a zipper in your tech pack
Give each zipper its own BOM line with every detail filled in. For a hoodie front, it looks like this:
- Component type: Fastener / Zipper
- Brand: YKK
- Material: Metal, antique brass finish
- Size: #5
- Function: Open-end, two-way separating
- Slider: Automatic lock, single pull
- Length: 68.0 cm
- Tape colour: DTM (dye to match) Pantone 19-4008 TCX
- Placement: Center front
Measuring length: for a closed-end zipper, measure from the top stop to the bottom stop. For a separating zipper, measure from the top stop to the bottom of the box. Write the length in centimetres and say how you measured it.
Zippers are only one part of the BOM. For the rest, see our guide on how to make a tech pack, and for garment-specific zipper choices, our hoodie and denim jeans tech pack guides.
Stop losing trims in spreadsheets
Zipper specs are detailed, and spreadsheets lose detail. One misread cell and your sample arrives with a #3 plastic zipper instead of a #5 metal one.
Clothing zipper FAQs
What is the difference between a #3 and a #5 zipper?
The number describes roughly how wide the closed chain is in millimetres, so a #5 is wider and stronger than a #3. A #3 suits lightweight garments and small pockets; a #5 is the standard for jackets and hoodies. Real chain widths run slightly wider than the number.
What size zipper should I use for a hoodie?
A #5 for the center front, in metal for a heavier look or coil for a softer, lighter feel.
What size zipper is used on jeans?
Most jeans use a #4 or #5 metal zipper on a closed-end fly, usually with a semi-automatic or automatic lock slider so the fly stays closed.
Are Riri zippers better than YKK?
They're different, not simply better. YKK is reliable and right for most clothing brands. Riri is luxury hardware with polished brass teeth and premium finishes, chosen when the zipper's feel is part of the product.
What is an invisible zipper?
A coil zipper sewn into a seam so the teeth and tape are hidden from the outside. It's used mainly on dresses, skirts and tailored garments.
How do I measure a zipper's length?
From the top stop to the bottom stop on a closed-end zipper, or to the bottom of the box on a separating one. Always give the length in centimetres in your tech pack.
